Low Flush Toilets

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Filed under: plumbing, Toilet repairs 

Here’s a video-blog to help explain the what you need to know about low flush toilets. Enjoy!

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Self Test for Sump Pump

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Filed under: plumbing 

Today, April 14, is an unusual day. A ton of snow fell, and it’s wet and heavy. You probably already know that if you picked up your shovel this morning. All of that snow is going to melt and run down under your house. So your sump pump is about to take a beating. Since it probably hasn’t run a lot until now, this may be the first really big test for it of the year. You need to make sure it’s working and ready. If not, you could flood your basement. Follow these quick and easy steps to make sure your pump is ready.

Take the lid off the sump barrel. It’s a black plastic lid, about 60cm (2 feet) in diameter. You might need a screw driver or pry bar to pull it out. They are usually located in the mechanical room of your basement, against an outside wall. If you don’t find one, your home might be old enough that it doesn’t have one. We can install them for you if you want one. Building codes require that one gets installed in every new home, but we find that older homes often don’t have one.
Fill the barrel with water. Use a garden hose if your washing machine is nearby, or else just grab a bucket and make a few trips from the nearest faucet. As the barrel fills, you should see a little float device start to rise. As it rises, you should hear the pump turn on and start to move water. If so, you’re halfway there.
Run outside to the where the water is exiting your home. Sometimes the pipe that’s shooting water out of your house is right beside the house. That’s no good because the water will just run right back down the side of your foundation and back into the sump barrel. Get a piece of drain pipe or something to get that water at least 5 feet away from your house. If you landscaping slopes toward your house, you need to go even further.

If your pump runs and the water is being properly discharged away from your home, you are good to go. If you need more advice or help, you can always feel free to call. 403-327-9349

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Tankless Water Heater Tip

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Filed under: Tankless Heaters 

Turn down the temperature! Seriously folks. You’re old tank style water heater was probably set at 140 Fahrenheit. That’s hot enough to scald yourself in no time! The reason it was set so high is so that you can increase hot water capacity. Crack the hot water open a little and add a bunch of cold.

With your tankless, you don’t need to do this. In fact, it works the opposite. If you only crack the faucet a little, you’ll restrict flow and the unit will cycle on and off. Turn the water temperature down to 115 or 120, and you’ll have to open that faucet up to get the hot water you’re looking for. That, in turn, increases flow within the tankless unit and helps it function much better.

Give it a try!
Dan

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Air Conditioners

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Filed under: Air Conditioners 
Not to be confused with air-coolers. The primary job of your air conditioner, much to most people’s surprise, is NOT to cool! It’s to dehumidify. You see, when you dehumidify the air in your home, it holds less heat. The more humidity in the air, the more heat it will hold. Hence, a dehumidified home feels cool. If that’s true, then there are a few important things about air conditioners to consider.
It needs long run-times. In order for it to properly dehumidify, it needs to run for more than just a few minutes. An oversized air conditioner will provide way less comfort than an undersized one except on those 5 hottest days of the year. Every other day, it will feel cold and icey in the home — not cool and comfy. Multi stage air conditioners help accomplish this too, and they’re generally quieter.
The bottom line is that you should be very concerned with getting the proper size of air conditioner if you really want to be comfortable and not just cold!
Until next post…
Dan

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